Automatic Military Watch - Military and field watches have gained popularity in recent years, and it's easy to see why. They have a retro, vintage charm without sacrificing authenticity and durability. The perfect blend of utility and beauty. So whether you're adding one to your collection for nostalgia or as a great addition to your wardrobe, you'll want to grab one of these great military-inspired fields, watchmakers or aviators.
So let's take a look at the 10 best military watches on the market that you should consider adding to your watch list.
Automatic Military Watch
Although it may be an unknown brand, this Chronograph by Airain deserves to be taken seriously. It is a faithful version of the original 1950s Type 20 issued to pilots by the French Ministry of Defense – very similar to Breguet's more expensive and more desirable Type 20.
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Case/Dial: Diameter 39.5mm, Stainless Steel, Black Finish Movement: Caliber AM1, Automatic, Chronograph & Flak Movement, Jewels 28 | Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Electricity: 60h | Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and 30-minute counter Fabric: Suede leather with metal buckle | Price: £1,942 (or £1,793 for pre-order) in July 2021, available on Airain.
The BR V1-92 is a traditionally styled field watch, as expected from the French brand, with a stylish cockpit and accessories. It has a simple black profile with only the essential hours, minutes and seconds hands and a date function between 4 and 5 o'clock. Although the stop function is correct, the numbers on the hour markers are 60 minutes instead of the usual 12 hours.
Panel/clamp: diameter 38.5 mm, satin stainless steel, black finish Water resistance: 100m (10 bar) Movement: Caliber BR-CAL.302, automatic | Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Battery life: 38h | Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date Buckle: Brown leather, metal buckle Price: £1,900, available from Bell & Ross.
The Khaki Field Mechanical is Hamilton's quintessential field watch, dating back to the 1960s and available in a variety of colors and materials. It's the easier moments on this list that make it so worthwhile. We prefer this version with a black background and matte stainless steel because it feels good and has a good desert scent.
Best Military Watches For Everyday Carry
As an American brand, Hamilton likes to use the A-11 as inspiration, the American "war-winning watch", and this part certainly still honors them.
Case/dial: diameter 38mm, satin stainless steel, black metal | Water resistance: 50m (5 bar) | Movement: caliber H-50, hand-wound Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz) | Electricity: 80h | Functions: hours, minutes, seconds | Wall: beige NATO fabric with pin buckle | Price: £395 - £515, available from Hamilton.
The Vertex MP45 Arctic is the most expensive watch on this list at £3,480, with just 30 made - 20 automatic and 10 manual. It is inspired by the original order from 1945 and makes it a classic Mono-Pusher watch. It has the same design in 40mm of pure metal as the original with a beautiful monochrome pattern. It also has many features of the famous Dirty Dozen mod.
Vertex was re-branded in 2015, and this entertainment company welcomes back some of their best models from over 100 years of history. Bringing designer watches back to their prime with the latest updates, such as the Sellita SW510 MP automatic mechanical movement, is a great way to honor their classic design.
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Case/clamp: diameter 40 mm, brushed steel, white | Water resistance: 100m (10 bar) | Movement: Sellita SW510 MP caliber, automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Battery: 48h | Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, 30 minutes, central counter | Fabric: Black leather with additional rubber and NATO | Price: £3,480, limited to just 30 units - 20 automatic and 10 manual, available from Vertex.
Farer recently launched a full court look collection that we went to check out, and all of the offerings in the range were beautiful. Our three-season favorite is Exmoor, an olive green watch inspired by the parks of Devon and Somerset.
It's really busy looking at many different colored watches with different numbers and big numbers and models - typical of Faroe - but still it looks like a very bare watch, which is very nice. The 38.5mm stainless steel case and Sellita SW221-1 movement make this a well-proportioned technical watch with a vintage feel. It has a real research feel to it.
Case/dial: 38.5mm diameter, stainless steel, olive green engraving | Water resistance: 200m (20 bar) | Movement: Swiss Made Sellita SW221-1 caliber, automatic, 26 jewels | Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Battery life: 38h | Functions: Hours, Minutes, Sweep Seconds, Directional Date & Quick Set, Hack Seconds | Case: Tan American Horween Leather and Steel Plate, Air Force Blue Waterproof Nylon NATO and 5 Row Stainless Steel Combination with Triple Buckle | Price: £875, available from Farer.
Seiko 5 Sports Military Srpg41 / Srpg41k1 Japan Made Ver Kanji
When it comes to heritage designs, it's no surprise that some of the most famous and beloved designs date back to World War II. It's a period that still fascinates us today, and all the connections to that time feel special. Timor can trace a line of heritage to that war, when the British War Office commissioned 12-hour manufacturers to produce accurate and durable watches for the military. This is a faithful recreation of the Dirty Dozen section of the list.
The Heritage stays true to its heritage with a vintage 36.5mm diameter Superluminova dial in beige, and is also available as a heritage-inspired AF0210 watch, which predates the modern NATO bracelet it normally comes with.
Panel/clamp: diameter 36.5 mm, stainless steel, black | Water resistance: 50m (5 bar) | Movements: Modified Sellita SW216, hand wound, 24 jewels | Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Electricity: 42h | Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o'clock Fabric: Belt fabric | Price: £910, available from Timor Watch Company.
The historic companion to Hanhart's redesigned 417 ES served as the first German military pilot's watch and set the standard for all Flieger pilot watches, making it a truly iconic military watch. Like the other "re-releases" on this list, the modern build of the legacy design allows for a great and stable time frame to run through all the battles.
Seiyajapan Original Watch Automatic A167 C / Non Date
The bicompax shape and fluted bezel with red markings are all faithful to the original and modern design, giving it 10 bar (100m) water resistance, which the historical version lacked. A very nice feature is that the back of the case has a hand wound SW 510 M and is a genuine Hanhart brand.
Case/dial: diameter 42 mm, stainless steel, black finish Water resistance: 100m (10 bar) | Movement: Sellita SW-510 M, hand wound, 23 jewels | Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Battery life: 58h | Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph Fabric: Black calf leather with white stitching Price: €1,790, available from Hanhart.
Many of the brands on this list have a wide selection of downloadable field and military watches to inspire you with their latest releases. Christopher Ward, not so much - the C65 Sandhurst is the brand's first foray into a military range, and they're pretty impressive. The watch prevents British Army publishers with a printed spine and is authorized by the MOD, it's good to go for the first attempt.
It's not even a good vintage, as Christopher Ward used the Smiths W10 watch from 1969 as a guide. Lume is a mix of modern and contemporary elements to create an attractive style. The Sellita SW200 automatic chronometer movement is surprisingly COSC certified at this level, which ranks higher than most on this list. In short, this is a great watch for the money.
Of The Best Military Watches And Their Histories
Panel/clamp: 38mm diameter, brushed and polished stainless steel, matte black | Water resistance: 150m (15 bar) | Movement: Sellita SW200 COSC caliber, automatic, 26 jewels | Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) | Battery life: 38h | Functions: hours, minutes, seconds | Fabric: Iron Mark | Price: £945, available from Christopher Ward.
Century, made a national naval heritage by modern standards. It has the taste of water and a light beige and dark color that gives the impression of weather, but the performance is of the class of field watches.
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